Battery hens are chickens that are raised in intensive farming systems, typically housed in small cages that dramatically restrict their movement. These hens are bred primarily for egg production, and are typically going to be your Brown Shavers or Hylines, here in New Zealand. The term "battery" refers to the battery cages used in these operations. Be aware that, although the name “battery hen” is still thrown around, conventional battery cages have actually been phased out here in New Zealand. In an effort to improve welfare of the hens without reducing production efficiency too much, battery cages have now been replaced with “colony cages”, which offer slightly more room and a few extra amenities such as a perch.

These girls are sent to slaughter at 18 months old, after their peak egg-laying capacity comes to an end.

Despite the change in cage layout, if you’re looking to rehome a few of these girls you will likely still be receiving them in the same physical state, which quite frankly….is not very pretty.

Rehoming battery hens can be immensely rewarding. It offers these birds a chance to live in a more natural environment, engage in natural behaviours, and enjoy their newfound freedom. If you’re looking for fulfilment in watching a chook feel the sun on its back or stretch its wings for the first time, this may be a fantastic option for you. These hens have little-to-no fear of humans, are incredibly gentle and forgiving (brilliant for children), and are fantastically high-laying. The joy of seeing these hens thrive in a loving home can be immensely rewarding, creating a positive impact on both you and the hens. Furthermore, commercial hens will have received a number of vaccinations, including against the widespread and devastating “Mareks Disease”, a luxury that non-commercial hens are not afforded.

If considering giving these girls a home you should, however, be aware of a few downfalls. These breeds have been developed as egg-laying machines, and as such are at high risk of a few additional illnesses compared to our hardy heritage breeds. They will also have some lingering effects of life in the cages, but don’t be disheartened; a little awareness goes a long way. Lets jump in to what you need to know.

Initial Triage

Often, your hens will have been cared for by a group of experienced people, who will triage and treat any major ailments before rehoming. Common issues we see straight from the cages, include open wounds from bullying behaviour or self-inflicted frustration, broken bones and sore feet. These hens often go into a moult immediately after laying, losing a lot of feathers in the process, other feathers are lost through plucking by other hens or themselves. Many volunteer organisations accept small, hand knitted vests to help badly afflicted hens stay warm until their new feathers grow. If you have received these hens immediately after release from the cages, you may need a vet on board to help triage, as not all hens will be well enough to survive the transition.

What to do

• Keep new hens isolated from any original flock members, until they receive the all clear.
  Have the hens triaged and examined by an experienced person or avian vet. Any ailments should be treated and pain relief offered.

• Consider a high protein, vitamin/mineral supplement to add to the water. This supports them during the high stress period, with a lot of new feather growth. This supplement can also be used during each yearly moult or other times of stress.

Infection and prolapses

One of the major things an avian vet can check for, that is not possible at home, is the presence of an infection called “salpingitis”. This simply means inflammation or infection of the fallopian tube, ie the reproductive tract. High laying breeds such as this have been bred to not go clucky, and to have very little off-lay period. So while most chicken breeds will lay significantly fewer eggs and have a good 8-12 week period of the year where they stop laying and rest, commercial breeds will often push straight through. While great for eggs on the table, this is NOT so great for their health, and puts them at high risk of conditions like prolapse and infection of the reproductive tract.

This infection can spread between other hens sharing a nesting box.

What to do

• If infection is caught very early, there may be a chance of treatment. Unfortunately, bird pus very quickly progresses to a solid mass inside the fallopian tube which cannot be removed without surgery. These girls should be removed from the flock, to prevent spread to other hens.

• Some vets may recommend treatment for your other hens to knock out any potential early infection.

• If infected hens have been using a nesting box, then a deep clean and disinfection is in order.

“Layer fatigue”

Layer Fatigue is the name of the condition when a hen is experiencing osteoporosis due to the unsustainable number of eggs she has laid. Each egg draws calcium from the hen, in order to create the shell. Commercial breeds are fed a high calcium diet, but when the hen takes no break in egg laying, this can only go so far. The result is a hen with weak, brittle bones, prone to breakage. She will often sit persistently, as her legs ache.

What to do

• Handle these girls carefully for the first few months to avoid broken bones.

• Consider a contraceptive injection (or an implant if finances allow), to give her system a break.

• Consider a Vitamin D injection from your vet to assist with laying down healthy new bone.

• Feed a high quality “layer pellet” and always offer extra grit on the side (never mixed in) to allow her to take in as much calcium as she needs, even while taking a break from laying.

Internal Parasites

Coccidia and intestinal worms are common gut parasites that all animals, including chickens, carry. When chicks are growing, their bodies encounter these parasites and work to build an immune response against them, enabling them to handle them better as adults. However, chicks pick up these parasites from their environment—specifically from dirt and faeces. In contrast, hens raised in cages, where they stand on wire and have no contact with soil, are not exposed to these parasites, leaving them very susceptible to disease during their first year out.

What to do

• When you first let rehomed hens outside and they start interacting with dirt, monitor them for diarrhoea and act swiftly, as coccidia and worms can take down their naive immune system quickly.

• You’ll want to deworm them more frequently than average adult chickens, especially during their first year in a new home. Aim for 4 times a year for the first year out, but continue to monitor closely outside of these times. Faecal samples can be dropped to your vet to pick up disease heavy burdens, early.

• Ideally, use a legitimate oral dewormer administered directly through their drinking water, or an injection from your vet, rather than relying on less effective spot-on treatments.

Enroll on our What you Need to Know to Keep Chickens online course for more in-depth information on keeping backyard poultry.