Gates
If you've got fences, you'll need gates. The best sorts of gates are the ones that open and close easily and contain animals regardless of whether the electric fence unit is on or not. Taranaki gates might be OK for gateways that get opened rarely or very occasionally, but for higher traffic areas - you can't beat a farm gate on hinges. "Replace Taranaki Gates" has always been near the top of the to-do list on every property I've ever owned.
Generally speaking, farm gates can be either wood or metal. Both types have their pros and cons, choice usually comes down to one or a combination of personal preference, practicality, and budget.
Wooden gates
Pros:
Look good, especially near to house/main driveway.
Are a more visible barrier to stock - most animals are less likely to attempt to crash through a wooden gate than a steel one.
Can be made to fit a non-standard opening.
You can design your own style and make them yourself.
Easier to repair than steel gates if damaged.
Cons:
Heavier than a steel gate, need larger strainer posts.
Harder to hang without a second person helping.
Potential problems opening/closing in high winds.
May warp or break at weak points (knots/splits).
Metal gates
Pros:
Lighter than wooden gates, less pressure on strainer posts.
Easier for one person to hang.
Range of standard sizes, weights, and styles.
Hinges are integral to the gate and have more vertical adjustment than wooden gates.
Can be cheaper than wooden gates, depending on sizes and any quantity discounts.
Cons:
Lighter weight gates won't stand up to as much stock pressure.
Custom gate widths are expensive.
Can short onto electric fences making for unpleasant gate opening experiences.
Harder to repair if bent or damaged.
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Wooden gates
If you choose to use wooden gates there are a few things to bear in mind.
Prices quoted by suppliers of wooden gates do not usually include hinge straps and bolts or gudgeons. Steel gate prices will typically include hinges but not gudgeons. Depending on the size of the gate, hinge straps can add significantly to the cost of the gate - making what looked like a bargain not so great after all.
Use hinge straps and gudgeons sized appropriately to the gate you're hanging - they're going to carry the entire weight of the gate. For wooden gates over 1.2 - 1.5m wide, use 20mm diameter gudgeons, and use thru-post (bolt-thru and/or lock-thru) gudgeons. My preference is to use a lock-thru gudgeon for the top hinge, and a bolt-thru at the bottom. Making one of them a 'long pin' gudgeon allows you to secure the gate to stop it from being lifted off the strainer post.
The easiest way to stop cattle lifting gates off their hinges is to secure them through a long pin gudgeon - in this case with a 5-inch nail into the strainer post.
Screw-in gudgeons are a little cheaper but they're not as strong as thru-post ones, and you need to lift the gate completely off to adjust them - which often isn't that easy with wooden gates (thru-post gudgeons can be adjusted with the gate in place). If in doubt about hinges and gudgeons - ask your rural supplies/hardware store for advice.
Some of the different types of gudgeons:
A wooden gate should have a top plate or cap board on it (nailed flat along the top rail in the gate) - to give it strength, and to protect the gate if cattle try to jump over it. The diagonal brace on a standard wooden gate should run down to the end it is hinged on - using compression to support the gate.
Check the gates you are buying to make sure they have no split or broken boards, or large loose knots in them. All joins on a wooden gate should be bolted with galvanized coach bolts (cup head bolts).
Making your own wooden gates can save you money - if you have cheap timber available and consider your labour at no cost. The easiest way to make wooden gates is to work to a template - which can be as simple as a pattern drawn on a concrete shed floor with builders' pencil or engineers' chalk.
Standard paddock gates for most animals can be made from 100x25mm timber (H3 treated pine or a naturally durable alternative). Cattle yard gates need to be made from heavier gauge timbers - 150x40mm or 150x25mm as follows:
Cattle Yard Gates:
Metal gates
Metal gates come in a range of styles and sizes - the most common styles being horizontal barred, vertical barred (often called 'Jailer' gates), and mesh (Hurricane) gates. The most common sizes in horizontal barred gates are 3.05/3.35/3.66/3.96/4.27/4.57m (10/11/12/13/14/15 ft) wide and either 1.00m or 1.05m high. Nowadays 3.66 (12ft) and 4.27m (14ft) are the most common gate widths used. Extra-wide gate openings can be created with double gates - bear in mind that they don't have to be identical widths - you can use an 11ft with a 14ft gate to span a 25ft opening if necessary.
There are also a number of specialist steel stockyard gate manufacturers around the country. Local engineering firms are also an option if you have a specific requirement for a non-standard or extra heavy-duty gate.
Generally, lighter gates are cheaper. Cheaper isn't always best - choose a gate weight to suit the stock you are trying to contain. Stock - particularly cattle and horses can damage steel gates quite easily. You can discourage stock from rubbing or pushing against a fence by installing electric fence offsets or tape gates in front of the gate. To straighten a bent gate - lay it on firm ground (driveway, concrete, etc), bulge upwards, and drive (slowly) over the bent bars to straighten. You might need to repeat this a few times - it won't usually restore the gate to perfectly straight, but it will get you close.
